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XIX-wieczni literaci i wełniane majtki

Bawełna organiczna, wełna, jedwab, a może bambus? Co jest najzdrowsze dla człowieka? Dlaczego wełniane matki opinające nasze ciało są zdrowsze niż jakiekolwiek inne? Jak Oscar Wilde i Bernard Shaw przyczynili się do popularyzacji wełny w XIXw.?

Historia majtek sięga raptem połowy XIX wieku, wcześniej pod ubraniem nie noszono nic. Wszystkie królowe, baronowe, hrabiny w ogromnych perukach i w wielowarstwowych sukniach, zakonnice i sprzedawczynie truskawek nie nosiły majtek. Ba! Majtki kojarzyły się z ladacznicami, ponieważ tę część garderoby nosiły jedynie pracownice domów publicznych.

Majtkom i bieliźnie uratowała reputację nauka i nowe podejście do zdrowia i higieny. W XIX wieku zaczęto kojarzyć choroby z bakteriami, a człowiek który to udowodnił Louis Pasteur za swoje odkrycie otrzymał Nobla w 1905 roku, czyli stosunkowo niedawno. Rozpoczęto promowanie higienicznego stylu życia, mycie brudnych rąk przed… operacjami i przed jedzeniem, osłanianie miejsc intymnych przed bezpośrednim kontaktem z ziemią, brudnymi powierzchniami itd. Ubierano do tego celu barchany, flanele, baje i wełny. Sławę tym ostatnim, majtkom z wełny, przyniósł profesor zoologi i fizjologii Gustav Jaeger.

Gustav Jaeger

Wszystko zaczęło się od jego książki o odzieży sprzyjającej ochronie zdrowia Apparel For Health Protection (wydana w języku niemieckim). Twierdził, że ubieranie się w tkaniny z włosia zwierzęcego bezpośrednio na skórę jest zdrowsze od ubierania bawełny czy czegokolwiek innego m.in. dlatego, że dzięki wełnie jest nam ciepło zimą i chłodno latem, naturalnie „oddychają”. Wełniane majtki były szczytem higienicznego stylu życia w przeciwieństwie do ubrań z przędzy bawełnianej czy jedwabiu.

Książka trafiła w ręce wiktoriańskiego księgowego Lewisa Tomalina, który zachwycił się teorią dr Jaegera na tyle, że postanowił książkę przetłumaczyć i wydać własnym sumptem w 1880 roku. Książka została przyjęta w Londynie niezwykle entuzjastycznie, dodatkowo w 1884 roku odbyła się Międzynarodowa Wystawa Zdrowia (International Health Exhibition) w związku z czym Tomalin otworzył sklep z odzieżą inspirowaną teoriami Jaegera. Teorie niemieckiego profesora stały się przedmiotem kultu i jednocześnie stały się modne.

Świat artystycznej bohemy zaczął nosić wełniane majtki. Oscar Wilde, autor Doriana Graya, włączył się w modową rewolucję, która miała miejsce w tamtym czasie, chwalił Jaegera w listach do przyjaciół oraz pisał artykuły w Pall Mall Gazette, czy Morning Post. O teorii Jaegera i zdrowej wełnie poczytać można też w jego książce On Dress.

Za to Bernard Shaw wzbudził sensację przechadzając się po ulicach Londynu w brązowym wełnianym garniturze na wzór Jaegera, co zostało w prasie podsumowane, że wygląda jak gnom.

George Bernard Shaw w wełnianym garniturze

Bernard Shaw trafił na teorie Jaegera dzięki swojemu przyjacielowi Andreasowi Scheu, który był pierwszym handlowcem firmy produkującej odzież wełnianą. Scheu podarował Shawowi książkę Jaegera, ponieważ ten włączył się w ruch reformy mody w tamtym czasie i szukał dodatkowej inspiracji, wiedzy. Po przeczytaniu książki, napisał do Scheu list, w którym ironicznie przeklina Jaegera i jego książkę, jako diaboliczną, posiadającą moc zniszczenia Szkocji. Pisze o tym, że zanim ją przeczytał żył spokojnie i nieświadomie, a teraz skórzane sznurówki przyprawiają go o reumatyzm, podszewka w kapeluszu powoduje zapalenie opon mózgowych,  chusteczka chroniczny katar. List kończy rozdzierający serce opis jak to zamiast smacznie spać w bawełnianej pościeli, zwija się nago na kocu i wszystko go swędzi, a bawełniana koszula nocna już czeka z przeznaczeniem na całun.

Bernard Shaw z wełnianego koca i  spod bawełnianego całunu po bezsennej nocy wstał i stał się pierwszym ambasadorem teorii Jaegera. Całą bawełnę i jedwabie zamienił na wełnę, wzbudzając w mieście niemałą sensację.

Wełna do dziś ma swoich zwolenników, można kupić bieliznę, która nie wygląda jak zrobiona na drutach.

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